1963 ford thunderbird cooling fan pulley

1963 FORD THUNDERBIRD COOLING FAN PULLEY INSTALL
1963 FORD THUNDERBIRD COOLING FAN PULLEY DOWNLOAD

The one wire part is simple but I’m not sure what to do with the voltage regulator wiring.

1963 FORD THUNDERBIRD COOLING FAN PULLEY INSTALL

I think I can install everything with the AC system as it is documented very well.Īs for installation of the tuff stuff one wire 100 amp alternator.

I have taken many pics and plan to share/post once I figure out how. I have carefully sand blasted each piece and plan to powder coat them a similar color to the seats. I also hav removed all the a luminum trim inside. I am able to do all the work myself so that helps too. I also bought a tough stuff 100 amp alternator and new brackets for the alternator. I have also pressure tested the radiator and bought a fan shroud that was missing and a correct fan blade and new fan clutch.

1963 FORD THUNDERBIRD COOLING FAN PULLEY DOWNLOAD

Since waiting for 4 weeks I had the opportunity to download the 28 page instructions and start disassembling in preparation for the new AC System. I finally received my Classic Air system. Any tips and info would be appreciated.Thank you Yellow Rose for offering support. Do I need to worry about the other two wires? What could they be for? Some kind of speed control? The fan runs fine when hooking up blue to positive and black to negative. One blue, one black, and two black with red stripes. I do have some questions about the fan wires. I'm will use the red wire from what I assume is the wiper motor for the 12V switched source (see photo). Tomorrow (if I can find a place open) I'm going to get the needed wire splices and hookup the relay kit. All mounting hardware was salvaged from around the garage (including leftover bolts from a toilet mount kit ). I drilled 3 holes in the plastic shroud and used 1 original hole to mount it to the radiator. It turned out that turning the electric fan shroud (from a '96 T-Bird) 90 degrees from the way it was intended to be mounted was almost a perfect fit in my Ranger. So this afternoon I removed the belt fan and mounted the electric fan. Eventually of course it would come on but the temp gauge was rising by that point - which is what I didn't want happening. When I tried an upper hose switch at a high enough temp so it wouldn't come on from normal highway cruising, it also didn't help much in idling situations (stayed off too long), due to being set for too high a temp. In the upper hose, all switches would come on at highway speeds because the water there was already hotter than it should be (because it needs cooling). I tried various temp switches in the upper (hot) radiator hose before going to the lower hose solution.

Why I didn't use an upper (hot) hose switch. I got the temp for that switch set nicely it comes on for long highway upgrades in summer, or if I idle it without using the brake. So if the water from radiator isn't sufficiently cool to support the engine, the fan comes on, high speed. I added a temp switch in the rad lower hose (return hose) which is set some 20 deg. When not moving or when crawling in traffic, the fan runs on low speed. I ended up very happy with a relay link running off the brake light circuit. I too wanted to mimick the constant breeze of the belt fan without excessive operation of the e-fan. Toughest part was managing the fan switching. I did an e-fan conversion on my rwd Volvo 240 with 2.3 liter engine.

1963 ford thunderbird cooling fan pulley